A Beginner’s Guide to the Best Climbing Ropes
Before you climb on, strap in with one of these trustworthy climbing ropes.
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It’s time to buy a climbing rope, and you’re starting to feel overwhelmed. Static? Dynamic? What does it all mean? What is measured in millimeters? DOES size matter? All of these questions and more are surely flying through your head, but worry not. Below, I break down all the factors to consider when choosing a climbing rope and recommend 10 great options to suit every type of climber.
Best Climbing Ropes
The Expert: Between summer stints as a National Park Ranger and CWI-certified climbing guide, I’ve had the pleasure of bouncing around some of the sweetest climbing areas in the country over the past four winters. During these six-month periods of simulated retirement, I have incidentally tested all types of climbing systems by whipping through the air in sandstone coliseums, clenching my teeth up conservatively protected granite spires, descending into the intimidating depths of limestone cave systems, and much more.
How to Find the Right Climbing Rope for You
Climbing ropes come in a vast array of shapes, types and sizes, all tailored to specific settings and conditions. Unfortunately, this makes the purchase of ropes uniquely easy to mess up. The good news is that there is some order to the madness, and you can find clarity by considering a rope’s type, diameter, and length.
Types
There are two main types of climbing ropes used for navigating vertical terrain. This guide focuses mainly on dynamic ropes, which are designed to stretch as they arrest a climber’s fall in order to maximally absorb impact. Static ropes stretch very little, which makes them abjectly horrible for catching falls. Imagine bungee jumping but the line doesn’t rebound as you fall. However, static lines are very efficient for controlled descents (like rappels), hauling, or ascending lines for work or photography.
Diameter
A rope’s diameter is a hugely important factor in its durability and largely determines its best use. Thicker climbing ropes can withstand many more dynamic impacts than thinner ropes. This being said, the thicker your rope, the heavier it will be, and at a certain point it will cease to be compatible with popular belay devices. The Petzl GriGri+ belay device boasts the widest range of rope compatibility, operating best with diameters ranging from 8.9 to 10.5 millimeters; it’s good to keep that range (or the range of your own belay device) in mind when choosing a rope.
I have found that 9.5- to 9.8-millimeter ropes are an excellent balance of weight and durability for most climbing settings. Whether you’re training in the gym, hitting a casual crag day, redpointing a hard project, or going out for a day of adventure, 9.5 to 9.8 millimeters can almost surely fit your needs.
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Length
The length of your regular climbing rope should directly reflect the setting in which you plan to use it. Depending on the climbing that you have immediate access to or the project you have planned, you might want a rope that is between 40 to 80 meters. Your rope needs to be at least twice the length of the wall that you plan to climb, plus another 15 to 30 feet for a reasonable belay. I’ll leave that math up to you, but keep in mind that the longer and thicker your rope is, the heavier it will be. Balance length and diameter for carrying convenience.
Climbing Rope Safety
Always defer to a manufacturer’s guidelines when evaluating the lifespan of goods—including climbing ropes—that are responsible for your mortal safety. Ropes are rated for a specific quantity of severe falls. It’s important to understand the different types of falls and how many of what types of falls your gear is rated to endure. Be sure to replace your climbing rope when it starts to show signs of significant wear, such as when the core fibers start to peek through the exterior sheath.
Three Fail-Safe Tips When Buying a Climbing Rope
- Don’t be hasty. Take time to figure out exactly what product will best suit your needs.
- Buy it yourself. Such a complex decision about specialized equipment should not be left to your friends or family who are looking to buy you a great gift.
- You don’t need the fanciest one! More than likely, the best climbing rope for you is going to be one of the most basic models available.
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