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Pockets: An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close
“Who knew the humble pocket could hold so much history? In this enthralling and always surprising account, Hannah Carlson turns the pocket inside out and out tumble pocket watches, coins, pistols, and a riveting centuries-long social and political history.” ― Jill Lepore, author of These Truths: A History of the United States
Pockets "showcases the best features of cultural history: a lively combination of visual, literary and documentary evidence. As sumptuously illustrated as it is learned … this highly inventive and original book demands a pocket sequel.” ― Jane Kamensky, Wall Street Journal
Who gets pockets, and why?
It’s a subject that stirs up plenty of passion: Why do men’s clothes have so many pockets and women’s so few? And why are the pockets on women’s clothes often too small to fit phones, if they even open at all? In her captivating book, Hannah Carlson, a lecturer in dress history at the Rhode Island School of Design, reveals the issues of gender politics, security, sexuality, power, and privilege tucked inside our pockets.
Throughout the medieval era in Europe, the purse was an almost universal dress feature. But when tailors stitched the first pockets into men’s trousers five hundred years ago, it ignited controversy and introduced a range of social issues that we continue to wrestle with today, from concealed pistols to gender inequality. #GiveMePocketsOrGiveMeDeath.
Filled with incredible images, this microhistory of the humble pocket uncovers what pockets tell us about How is it that putting your hands in your pockets can be seen as a sign of laziness, arrogance, confidence, or perversion? Walt Whitman’s author photograph, hand in pocket, for Leaves of Grass seemed like an affront to middle-class respectability. When W.E.B. Du Bois posed for a portrait, his pocketed hands signaled defiant coolness.
And what else might be hiding in the history of our pockets? (There’s a reason that the contents of Abraham Lincoln’s pockets are the most popular exhibit at the Library of Congress.) Thinking about the future, Carlson asks whether we will still want pockets when our clothes contain “smart” textiles that incorporate our IDs and credit cards.
Pockets is for the legions of people obsessed with pockets and their absence, and for anyone interested in how our clothes influence the way we navigate the world.
Pockets "showcases the best features of cultural history: a lively combination of visual, literary and documentary evidence. As sumptuously illustrated as it is learned … this highly inventive and original book demands a pocket sequel.” ― Jane Kamensky, Wall Street Journal
Who gets pockets, and why?
It’s a subject that stirs up plenty of passion: Why do men’s clothes have so many pockets and women’s so few? And why are the pockets on women’s clothes often too small to fit phones, if they even open at all? In her captivating book, Hannah Carlson, a lecturer in dress history at the Rhode Island School of Design, reveals the issues of gender politics, security, sexuality, power, and privilege tucked inside our pockets.
Throughout the medieval era in Europe, the purse was an almost universal dress feature. But when tailors stitched the first pockets into men’s trousers five hundred years ago, it ignited controversy and introduced a range of social issues that we continue to wrestle with today, from concealed pistols to gender inequality. #GiveMePocketsOrGiveMeDeath.
Filled with incredible images, this microhistory of the humble pocket uncovers what pockets tell us about How is it that putting your hands in your pockets can be seen as a sign of laziness, arrogance, confidence, or perversion? Walt Whitman’s author photograph, hand in pocket, for Leaves of Grass seemed like an affront to middle-class respectability. When W.E.B. Du Bois posed for a portrait, his pocketed hands signaled defiant coolness.
And what else might be hiding in the history of our pockets? (There’s a reason that the contents of Abraham Lincoln’s pockets are the most popular exhibit at the Library of Congress.) Thinking about the future, Carlson asks whether we will still want pockets when our clothes contain “smart” textiles that incorporate our IDs and credit cards.
Pockets is for the legions of people obsessed with pockets and their absence, and for anyone interested in how our clothes influence the way we navigate the world.
320 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2023
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 107 reviews
April 11, 2024
4.5*
Gražiai išleista, labai fainai iliustruota monografija. Ne tik apie kišenių istoriją, bet ir apie jų įtaką kultūrai, etiketui, feminizmui. Ir, apskritai, apie lyčių nelygybę.
Emily Dickinson vargo su siuvėjais dėl kišenių, kuriose norėjo laikyti pieštuką ir popierių, bet pasiekė savo. Hannah Carlson: [Dickinson] ‘had a room of her own – and a reliable pocket’.
Pasirodo vyrams rankas laikyti kišenėse bendraujant (ypač su moterimis) nepadoru, nes jos per arti lytinių organų. Ir tikri džentelmenai, pavyzdžiui fotografuodamiesi, stengėsi nepamiršti ištraukti rankų iš kišenių.
O štai Walt Whitman savo garsiojo poezijos rinkinio “Žolės lapai” prieštitulinio puslapio iliustracijai pozavo demonstratyviai laikydamas ranką kišenėje.
Verta dėmesio ir laiko knyga.
Gražiai išleista, labai fainai iliustruota monografija. Ne tik apie kišenių istoriją, bet ir apie jų įtaką kultūrai, etiketui, feminizmui. Ir, apskritai, apie lyčių nelygybę.
Emily Dickinson vargo su siuvėjais dėl kišenių, kuriose norėjo laikyti pieštuką ir popierių, bet pasiekė savo. Hannah Carlson: [Dickinson] ‘had a room of her own – and a reliable pocket’.
Pasirodo vyrams rankas laikyti kišenėse bendraujant (ypač su moterimis) nepadoru, nes jos per arti lytinių organų. Ir tikri džentelmenai, pavyzdžiui fotografuodamiesi, stengėsi nepamiršti ištraukti rankų iš kišenių.
O štai Walt Whitman savo garsiojo poezijos rinkinio “Žolės lapai” prieštitulinio puslapio iliustracijai pozavo demonstratyviai laikydamas ranką kišenėje.
Verta dėmesio ir laiko knyga.
October 24, 2023
Before reading Pockets: An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close, I had never given much thought to pockets. This book changed that and made me view pockets in an entirely new light. Beautifully illustrated and thoroughly researched, this book is informative, entertaining, and accessible to the average reader. The five-hundred-year history of pockets is condensed to give readers the most interesting and mind-boggling facts. Throughout history, pockets have been fraught with many different meanings and connotations encompassing everything from sexuality and gender to politics and morality. Along with a history of how pockets evolved over time, there are sections on pocket inventories, a look to the future of pockets, and a discussion of how “pocket inequity” continues to this day. This is really a fascinating and, at times, astonishing read. Hannah Carlson has done a wonderful job. Many thanks to Algonquin for a chance to read a copy and offer my opinion.
September 9, 2023
If you know my reading habits at all, you know I love obscure history, so this title absolutely grabbed my attention. A history of pockets?!? Yes, please!
Pockets were invented - which I never thought about. Men and women both originally wore them as bags tied to the waist under any clothing. Men's clothing gradually developed modern pockets and women gradually developed handbags, although this wasn't always completely gender-specific.
There was so much I found interesting, but I'll just share one thing I don't think I'll ever forget. Beginning in the nineteenth century there was a fascination with the things little boys stored in their pockets. Novels and magazine articles included detailed lists and parents kept actual inventories of stuff they took from their boys' pockets.
A couple of decades later, it became great fun to talk about the stuff women keep in their purses. You'll be shocked to know that the variety and seeming uselessness of the items in boys' pockets was considered a sign of their ingenuity and budding genius while the variety and seeming uselessness of the items in women's purses was considered hilarious proof of their absent-mindedness and lack of practicality.
Now that women's clothing is gradually gaining pocket equity, there is even a movement demanding that little girls' clothing have pockets like little boys' have, which I love. Now their parents can inventory their pockets.
I could go on and on, but I'll let you read the book.
Pockets were invented - which I never thought about. Men and women both originally wore them as bags tied to the waist under any clothing. Men's clothing gradually developed modern pockets and women gradually developed handbags, although this wasn't always completely gender-specific.
There was so much I found interesting, but I'll just share one thing I don't think I'll ever forget. Beginning in the nineteenth century there was a fascination with the things little boys stored in their pockets. Novels and magazine articles included detailed lists and parents kept actual inventories of stuff they took from their boys' pockets.
A couple of decades later, it became great fun to talk about the stuff women keep in their purses. You'll be shocked to know that the variety and seeming uselessness of the items in boys' pockets was considered a sign of their ingenuity and budding genius while the variety and seeming uselessness of the items in women's purses was considered hilarious proof of their absent-mindedness and lack of practicality.
Now that women's clothing is gradually gaining pocket equity, there is even a movement demanding that little girls' clothing have pockets like little boys' have, which I love. Now their parents can inventory their pockets.
I could go on and on, but I'll let you read the book.
May 22, 2024
3.5 stars. I am passionate about pockets. So when I saw this book, I was intrigued. Then I saw it at Barnes and Noble and a passing employee (who was also a fashion major) stopped to recommend it, I knew I had to buy it. A beautiful book with color illustrations this covers the history, use, design, and sexism of pockets. I learned a lot from this extremely well researched book. It lacked an engaging narrative voice, but that might be asking too much for the topic. I’m glad I read it and am now more informed on my favorite clothing feature.
September 13, 2023
Pockets by Hannah Carlson is a rollicking and informative look at pockets throughout history with fascinating illustrations and photographs. The writing is witty, engaging, deftly-crafted and sharp as scissors. I learned, giggled and was disappointed when it ended. Such an intriguing topic to get into, as I have done with several people. We take pockets for granted but we didn't always have them. In fact, it wasn't until five hundred years ago when men first started using pockets. It was a male thing even then when little boys had them in which to store their treasures but girls didn't.
So many bits stand out in my mind but amongst them are the chagrin pocketless chain-mail-wearing knights felt on hot days, difficult laundering which forced ripping apart seams to re-attach the opposite way for increased wearability, gorgeous embroidered purses, the differences between measurements of male and female pockets even to this day, uniforms, multitudinous gentleman's suit pockets, links to famous writers, pickpockets and other crimes. Every page holds a plethora of treats to discover!
If you are beguiled by pockets and their secrets and what they say about us as human beings over the decades, this book is for you. Talk about a delightful experience riddled with lightbulb moments galore! I feel smarter after reading it.
My sincere thank you to Algonquin Books and NetGalley for providing me with a digital copy of this outstanding book.
So many bits stand out in my mind but amongst them are the chagrin pocketless chain-mail-wearing knights felt on hot days, difficult laundering which forced ripping apart seams to re-attach the opposite way for increased wearability, gorgeous embroidered purses, the differences between measurements of male and female pockets even to this day, uniforms, multitudinous gentleman's suit pockets, links to famous writers, pickpockets and other crimes. Every page holds a plethora of treats to discover!
If you are beguiled by pockets and their secrets and what they say about us as human beings over the decades, this book is for you. Talk about a delightful experience riddled with lightbulb moments galore! I feel smarter after reading it.
My sincere thank you to Algonquin Books and NetGalley for providing me with a digital copy of this outstanding book.
March 10, 2024
Apparel design and its history was really interesting. Pockets and their design have been influenced by war, gender norms, royalty, high fashion, consumer preferences, technology, etc.
February 9, 2024
Not a topic most people would be drawn to but I love a history piece that’s focussed on the story of a specific topic as time, humans and culture grow and change.
Read
February 4, 2024I LOVE POCKETS I LOVE POCKETS
January 30, 2024
3.5 Pretty interesting, but I did find it slightly dry, maybe because I did it as an audiobook from the library so I did not have access to the photos/images. If the topic interests you it’s worth reading for sure!
December 21, 2023
Interesting book. Patriarchal control over pockets- or lack of them in women’s clothes.
January 28, 2024
Enjoyed the history. Would have preferred less quotes from plays.
August 11, 2023
3.5 stars
Fun and informative book about pockets. Who knew pockets in clothing had so much history behind them or so much political and gender history?
This is definitely a quirky book, but entertaining. I have long complained about the lack of pockets in our clothing and I am not alone. The historical explanations for lack of pockets as well as the vast differences between the utilitarianism of men's and women's garments was interesting. There are a nice selection of odd photos illustrating pockets through the ages.
The sections on the fashion industry was quite fascinating. Pockets have served as provocative highlights of all kinds of garments. A quick and fun read. I received an advance review copy for free, and I am leaving this review voluntarily.
Fun and informative book about pockets. Who knew pockets in clothing had so much history behind them or so much political and gender history?
This is definitely a quirky book, but entertaining. I have long complained about the lack of pockets in our clothing and I am not alone. The historical explanations for lack of pockets as well as the vast differences between the utilitarianism of men's and women's garments was interesting. There are a nice selection of odd photos illustrating pockets through the ages.
The sections on the fashion industry was quite fascinating. Pockets have served as provocative highlights of all kinds of garments. A quick and fun read. I received an advance review copy for free, and I am leaving this review voluntarily.
February 29, 2024
Pockets - An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close by Hannah Carlson was an interesting read. I listened to the audiobook read by Stephanie Cannon and while I have a passing and somewhat shallow interest in the history of pockets, I was reasonably entertained here. According to her bio, Hannah Carlson teaches dress history and is a conservator with a PhD in material culture, so she knows her subject matter.
After the medieval period when the purse was a separate item, men wore their purse hanging from their belt, while women wore theirs hanging around mid thigh, meaning that it swung when the wearer walked. In addition, the placement of one's purse could be provocative, and held a surprising (to me) amount of erotic appeal.
"How you wore your purse distinguished between masculine and feminine dress, but the purse itself did not belong to a single gender." Chapter 5
Carlson tells us the word 'pocket' is a borrowing of the French word for bag, and moves through history touching on the fashion for cod pieces, the dagger purse and the dangers of men carrying hidden weapons and pistols in their newly concealed pockets.
What about women's fashion? In Chapter 8, the author tells us that pockets for women have never been as popular in women's clothing as in men's. I was surprised to learn that in the 1800s, some dressmakers created hidden pockets in the bustle of ladies skirts. Located in the middle of the lower back in an early form of bum bag, women would turn themselves in circles trying to twist and retrieve items impractically stored in their bustle pocket.
I enjoyed the commentary about men and courtiers standing and walking with their hands in their pockets and the uproar and claims of indecency made by fellow citizens at the time. I couldn't help but smile in recognition here, as I recall ranting about the trend in the 1990s that saw baggy pants worn low enough to display the wearer's briefs/boxers/g-string and in some cases so low as to cause the wearer to adopt a ridiculous style of walking to prevent their pants from falling down.
The gender politics of pockets and fashion inequality don't really interest me, but the introduction 500 years ago of pockets sewn into men's pants had an unexpected impact on the way men walked and even the way that they stood, some choosing to put a hand inside their pocket or their waistcoat.
"In a pose promulgated by fashionable people, and upheld by professionals, the aristocrat standing at his ease appeared as if he had wrapped himself in a loose embrace. In Britain, painters seized on the hand in waistcoat gesture as a popular portrait formula, believing it depicted qualities of modesty and reserve." Chapter 7
It's interesting to see this pose now and not wonder what the 'portrait pose' is for our time; perhaps it's the flamingo pose or the bambi pose. (Both legitimate poses trending on Instagram right now, but that's 30 mins of valuable reading time I'll never get back after searching 'portrait poses over time').
Back to the book, and Carlson swiftly moves towards the present day, describing the shift from pockets to purses and handbags and the endless battle between functionality versus fashion.
I enjoyed the author's assessment of the explosion in pocket popularity in the 1990s with the resurgence of cargo pants, but perhaps my favourite line from the book was the optimism in going out without pockets or a handbag to carry necessities like keys, tissues, phone, lip balm etc.
"In pared down designs, the person announces their unconcern; their belief that nothing is required and that nothing will go wrong." Chapter 11
That's it exactly! I'm never that optimistic and always take more than I end up needing.
Pockets - An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close by Hannah Carlson is recommended for readers with an interest in micro history, fashion and gender politics. This 3 star rating is largely reflective of my interest level in the topic and not representative of the author's knowledge of the subject, which is deep.
I still have The Pocket - A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660–1900 by Barbara Burman on my virtual TBR pile but I think I might have well and truly scratched that itch here.
After the medieval period when the purse was a separate item, men wore their purse hanging from their belt, while women wore theirs hanging around mid thigh, meaning that it swung when the wearer walked. In addition, the placement of one's purse could be provocative, and held a surprising (to me) amount of erotic appeal.
"How you wore your purse distinguished between masculine and feminine dress, but the purse itself did not belong to a single gender." Chapter 5
Carlson tells us the word 'pocket' is a borrowing of the French word for bag, and moves through history touching on the fashion for cod pieces, the dagger purse and the dangers of men carrying hidden weapons and pistols in their newly concealed pockets.
What about women's fashion? In Chapter 8, the author tells us that pockets for women have never been as popular in women's clothing as in men's. I was surprised to learn that in the 1800s, some dressmakers created hidden pockets in the bustle of ladies skirts. Located in the middle of the lower back in an early form of bum bag, women would turn themselves in circles trying to twist and retrieve items impractically stored in their bustle pocket.
I enjoyed the commentary about men and courtiers standing and walking with their hands in their pockets and the uproar and claims of indecency made by fellow citizens at the time. I couldn't help but smile in recognition here, as I recall ranting about the trend in the 1990s that saw baggy pants worn low enough to display the wearer's briefs/boxers/g-string and in some cases so low as to cause the wearer to adopt a ridiculous style of walking to prevent their pants from falling down.
The gender politics of pockets and fashion inequality don't really interest me, but the introduction 500 years ago of pockets sewn into men's pants had an unexpected impact on the way men walked and even the way that they stood, some choosing to put a hand inside their pocket or their waistcoat.
"In a pose promulgated by fashionable people, and upheld by professionals, the aristocrat standing at his ease appeared as if he had wrapped himself in a loose embrace. In Britain, painters seized on the hand in waistcoat gesture as a popular portrait formula, believing it depicted qualities of modesty and reserve." Chapter 7
It's interesting to see this pose now and not wonder what the 'portrait pose' is for our time; perhaps it's the flamingo pose or the bambi pose. (Both legitimate poses trending on Instagram right now, but that's 30 mins of valuable reading time I'll never get back after searching 'portrait poses over time').
Back to the book, and Carlson swiftly moves towards the present day, describing the shift from pockets to purses and handbags and the endless battle between functionality versus fashion.
I enjoyed the author's assessment of the explosion in pocket popularity in the 1990s with the resurgence of cargo pants, but perhaps my favourite line from the book was the optimism in going out without pockets or a handbag to carry necessities like keys, tissues, phone, lip balm etc.
"In pared down designs, the person announces their unconcern; their belief that nothing is required and that nothing will go wrong." Chapter 11
That's it exactly! I'm never that optimistic and always take more than I end up needing.
Pockets - An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close by Hannah Carlson is recommended for readers with an interest in micro history, fashion and gender politics. This 3 star rating is largely reflective of my interest level in the topic and not representative of the author's knowledge of the subject, which is deep.
I still have The Pocket - A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660–1900 by Barbara Burman on my virtual TBR pile but I think I might have well and truly scratched that itch here.
September 2, 2023
I really enjoyed reading pockets! What an interesting and niche piece of history this book covers. I love wearing pockets in my clothing and bags. I feel I am always on a quest to find the perfect coat, pants, or bag with exactly the right pockets that suit my needs for different occasions. Never I had previously considered the socio economic history or the gendered history behind something that would otherwise seem mundane
Pockets covers the invention of the pocket from the 18th century forward. This book addresses the intimacy of pockets and how they were used as everything from intimate clothing to a central argument of women's freedom during the women's suffragette movement.
Booksellers, if you have a customer who enjoys books such as the Orchid Thief, The Feather Thief, Stiff and other niche history books, this would be a great pairing!
Pockets covers the invention of the pocket from the 18th century forward. This book addresses the intimacy of pockets and how they were used as everything from intimate clothing to a central argument of women's freedom during the women's suffragette movement.
Booksellers, if you have a customer who enjoys books such as the Orchid Thief, The Feather Thief, Stiff and other niche history books, this would be a great pairing!
April 14, 2024
3.5 | More and more I’m coming to love a microhistory that analyzes a seemingly minor topic that actually is so reflective of greater trends/sociology. I was excited to dig deep into the history and social ramifications of pockets. I did appreciate that it went heavy into fashion trends but also into meanings behind who gets pockets and why, what people are putting in them and even the significance of the posture of sticking your hands in your pockets. While this delivered on the facts, it was lacking in personality and felt quite academic.
It was fun to chat this with my college besties book club - we not only chatted about what we learned but also why pockets are meaningful to us in personal ways.
It was fun to chat this with my college besties book club - we not only chatted about what we learned but also why pockets are meaningful to us in personal ways.
February 3, 2024
I am the target demographic for this book. History, sociology, gender studies, a little political science, all in a book about pockets? Come on.
I just wish it ended differently. The first 6 chapters explained centuries of gendered rules and etiquette around pockets, and then the last chapter gave us a synopsis of whacky pockets of the 20th and 21st century. Ms. Carlson, ma’am, WHY DO MY DRESSES STILL NOT HAVE POCKETS? Please advise.
I just wish it ended differently. The first 6 chapters explained centuries of gendered rules and etiquette around pockets, and then the last chapter gave us a synopsis of whacky pockets of the 20th and 21st century. Ms. Carlson, ma’am, WHY DO MY DRESSES STILL NOT HAVE POCKETS? Please advise.
November 6, 2023
I’m not sure how I can find a book so interesting and yet have it put me to sleep Every Time I opened it. The actual history and evolution of pockets was fascinating while the more contemporary stuff didn’t interest me as much. I don’t really care what you’re trying to “say” with your weird nonfunctional pockets. Just give me a pocket big enough to carry all of my important crap.
October 17, 2023
Eh! I'm sure I would have done better reading this rather listening to this (at twice the speed). Still what I gleaned was interesting. Involved more "regular" history than what I expected. Even info on handbags.
January 7, 2024
So
Please tell me I’m not the only one who remembered this literary reference to little girls pockets,
when little laura ingalls stuffed her pockets with so many rocks her pocket fell right off her dress
————————————————————————————
I loved how the author could explain centuries of social, economic, and cultural events through the humble pocket. I think I understand how clothes become more casual and comfortable, but I kinda got lost half way through sometimes
I don’t know maybe it was just me but some chapters were harder to read.
Please tell me I’m not the only one who remembered this literary reference to little girls pockets,
when little laura ingalls stuffed her pockets with so many rocks her pocket fell right off her dress
————————————————————————————
I loved how the author could explain centuries of social, economic, and cultural events through the humble pocket. I think I understand how clothes become more casual and comfortable, but I kinda got lost half way through sometimes
I don’t know maybe it was just me but some chapters were harder to read.
January 18, 2024
I came for the feminist pocket politics, which was definitely in here and super interesting, but there was a lot more fashion history than I wanted, haha. Which is my bad for sure, not the book's. 3.25 stars.
March 11, 2024
What a fun book to read. And who knew there was so much to the humble pocket. Bravo.
November 19, 2023
Historical overview of the history of pockets! A little on the academic side, but chock full of information. Women's clothing often had false pockets...because what would a woman dare to hide? Suffragette speeches?
June 26, 2024
I love you books about incredibly specific topics
March 12, 2024
What a fun little cultural history!
January 18, 2024
Never really thought much about pockets, more than the "having pockets means you can HOLD THINGS", and how historically women didn't really have the autonomy to just. DO things like that. This book took those factoids and anecdotes and expanded on them by like 23487239487%. Super interesting for anyone that is interested in fashion history, reading beyond the lines when it comes to period dramas, feminism and gender politics. Basically it's super cool and I can't look at pockets the same way again.
June 30, 2024
Hannah Carlson, a lecturer on dress history, takes readers on a deep journey through one of the most controversial clothing topics ever: pockets. Who gets them? Where did they come from? Why do they matter? In this concise micro-history, travel all the way back to the earliest recorded history of human carrying things around, and read along as drawstring bags and pouches evolve both over and under clothing, to the first inset pockets in men’s trousers, to the still gendered inequalities of pockets in the modern era, to speculations about future clothes and the place pockets may still have in that far off time. This book uncovers what makes pockets so special and how they’ve become a cultural touchstone, an object of unequal opportunity, and a guiding principle for clothing makers, buyers, and wearers the world over.
Pockets is a splendid micro-history, just a truly fabulous esoteric glimpse into a singular topic that ended up being deeper and more nuanced than I could have imagined. Most folks are aware of the inequity of pocket inclusion in garments today, either from living it themselves or hearing about it from people who are constantly thwarted in their daily rambles by a lack of proper pockets. I live in the former camp and usually carry a small bag of some kind, and I can’t imagine having clothes that are comfy, allow full range of motion, and have enough storage space that I could entirely forgo the handbag if I so chose. I was immediately drawn to this book for that reason, knowing that I live in a world where pockets are not (currently) for everyone, and I really enjoyed learning about how this came to be and how clothing has changed over the years yet still the pocket issue has remained. Besides making me even more aware of my relative lack of good pockets, this book made me want to sew my own pants and add my own pockets to skirts and dresses just so I could have my own chance to have adequate space for the odds and ends of life. I especially enjoyed the commentary on the social meanings behind pockets and the weight those meanings carry - especially in terms of the perception of preparedness and one’s readiness for whatever adventures may occur. I want to be prepared (within reason) for all kinds of scenarios, thus, a small bag with enough space to suffice. I wish dearly that pockets would be, could be, enough but just don’t see that happening to my own clothes without some significant intervention. There are some parts of the book about more recent and modern pocket fashion and various designers which I think had accompanying imagery, I listened to Pockets as an audiobook so that material was somewhat inaccessible. The audio descriptions are still quite good but there was a slight sense of lacking some context for a few of the discussions in the book. Overall an excellent read, somehow informative and also enraging, and a great study of history for all those who like collecting very specific and targeted sets of facts. Pockets is a delight and a book I would definitely revisit.
Pockets is a splendid micro-history, just a truly fabulous esoteric glimpse into a singular topic that ended up being deeper and more nuanced than I could have imagined. Most folks are aware of the inequity of pocket inclusion in garments today, either from living it themselves or hearing about it from people who are constantly thwarted in their daily rambles by a lack of proper pockets. I live in the former camp and usually carry a small bag of some kind, and I can’t imagine having clothes that are comfy, allow full range of motion, and have enough storage space that I could entirely forgo the handbag if I so chose. I was immediately drawn to this book for that reason, knowing that I live in a world where pockets are not (currently) for everyone, and I really enjoyed learning about how this came to be and how clothing has changed over the years yet still the pocket issue has remained. Besides making me even more aware of my relative lack of good pockets, this book made me want to sew my own pants and add my own pockets to skirts and dresses just so I could have my own chance to have adequate space for the odds and ends of life. I especially enjoyed the commentary on the social meanings behind pockets and the weight those meanings carry - especially in terms of the perception of preparedness and one’s readiness for whatever adventures may occur. I want to be prepared (within reason) for all kinds of scenarios, thus, a small bag with enough space to suffice. I wish dearly that pockets would be, could be, enough but just don’t see that happening to my own clothes without some significant intervention. There are some parts of the book about more recent and modern pocket fashion and various designers which I think had accompanying imagery, I listened to Pockets as an audiobook so that material was somewhat inaccessible. The audio descriptions are still quite good but there was a slight sense of lacking some context for a few of the discussions in the book. Overall an excellent read, somehow informative and also enraging, and a great study of history for all those who like collecting very specific and targeted sets of facts. Pockets is a delight and a book I would definitely revisit.
August 20, 2023
I knew about the tie-on pockets that women wore under their skirts in the 17th and 18th c. And, how men’s clothing had pockets, but women needed reticules and later handbags. How often have I seen young women carrying their cell phone, setting it down to do anything, because they couldn’t carry a purse into the gym, and those tight pants didn’t have any pockets? Still, I never thought about the social implications behind who gets pockets.
It was interesting to read about the history of pockets, and the lack thereof in women’s fashions. I was so pleased that this book included illustrations so I didn’t have to search online to see examples.
Pockets were originally bags worn under clothing. They could carry things one needed in daily life, like a handkerchief or sewing kit, or hide a gun or knife. When coats, vests, and trousers became the norm under Charles II, they were filled with pockets. Women had to string one around their waist and reach under their dress to access it.
Society didn’t see that women needed the expense of pockets; men were out and about in the world, and needed their stuff, while women didn’t lead an active outside life. When women DID get pockets, they were smaller than those in men’s clothing. Fashion designers, mostly men, ignored women’s demand for pockets. They would interfere with the silhouette of dress. In the bustle skirt era, women had to reach into the bustle’s secret pocket–if they could reach it themselves.
One particularly interesting tidbit was quite revealing: The uniforms for WAC had no pockets in the skirts, and the pockets on the coat were for show only! So, they had to design a shoulder purse for the women to carry anything!
For most of the 19th c, putting one’s hands in one’s pockets was considered the mark of a ‘loafer,’ a low life, someone with an attitude. Soon, slouching with a hand in one’s pockets became the stance of ‘cool’.
Carlson looks at H. G. Well’s fashion predictions. He imagined a world where people would wear simple, unisex clothes and sport devices that consolidated everything they would need: flashlight, telephone, radio, notebook. He also imagined a credit card basis economy and an automatic lock replacing keys! So, no pockets were needed. Still, when I watch Star Trek shows, I note the unisex, close fitting clothes and wonder if they are reduced to wiping their nose on their sleeves while on away missions!
I enjoyed this entertaining, informative book.
Thanks to the publisher for a free book.
It was interesting to read about the history of pockets, and the lack thereof in women’s fashions. I was so pleased that this book included illustrations so I didn’t have to search online to see examples.
Pockets were originally bags worn under clothing. They could carry things one needed in daily life, like a handkerchief or sewing kit, or hide a gun or knife. When coats, vests, and trousers became the norm under Charles II, they were filled with pockets. Women had to string one around their waist and reach under their dress to access it.
Society didn’t see that women needed the expense of pockets; men were out and about in the world, and needed their stuff, while women didn’t lead an active outside life. When women DID get pockets, they were smaller than those in men’s clothing. Fashion designers, mostly men, ignored women’s demand for pockets. They would interfere with the silhouette of dress. In the bustle skirt era, women had to reach into the bustle’s secret pocket–if they could reach it themselves.
One particularly interesting tidbit was quite revealing: The uniforms for WAC had no pockets in the skirts, and the pockets on the coat were for show only! So, they had to design a shoulder purse for the women to carry anything!
For most of the 19th c, putting one’s hands in one’s pockets was considered the mark of a ‘loafer,’ a low life, someone with an attitude. Soon, slouching with a hand in one’s pockets became the stance of ‘cool’.
Carlson looks at H. G. Well’s fashion predictions. He imagined a world where people would wear simple, unisex clothes and sport devices that consolidated everything they would need: flashlight, telephone, radio, notebook. He also imagined a credit card basis economy and an automatic lock replacing keys! So, no pockets were needed. Still, when I watch Star Trek shows, I note the unisex, close fitting clothes and wonder if they are reduced to wiping their nose on their sleeves while on away missions!
I enjoyed this entertaining, informative book.
Thanks to the publisher for a free book.
December 23, 2023
Excerpt from the review that can be found here https://middlebrowse.com/books/hannah...
The beginning of wisdom about body language is the universal validity of the nostrum: keep your hands out of your pockets. The perdurable infamy associated with enjoying the mere power of containment besom pockets offer and the contradictory attitudes attributed to anyone consummating the mute repose of putting their hands in them shows we don’t always know why someone offends us—even if we think it has to do with what they do with their hands in our company. Hannah Carlson’s Pockets: An Intimate History of How we Keeps Things Close digs deeply, and eagerly probes for clues to the enigma of the pocket among the miscellany of fob watches, wallets, mobile phones, cosmetics, guns, and keys only—I think—to come up empty.
Whether you’re the Duchess of Sussex “pioneering a new, relaxed, tactile branch of monarchy” or the governor of Tokyo keeping warm on a podium, hands in the pockets are a no-no. On the one hand it can be read as anxiety, diffidence, or deceptiveness; an avoidance-oriented coping behaviour. On the other hand, it can be—confusingly—seen as betraying disrespect, self-absorption, or aloofness; an approach-oriented, passive aggressive attitude to adopt in a social situation. It seems you can just as easily convey contempt or timidity merely by placing your hands into the typical bag or envelope like containers fastened on to an article of clothing. And this has been so since our clothes first sported pockets. There’s more to the social significance of the pocket than who uses it and what they use it for, and this is why a class analysis of pocket inequality, or a feminist analysis of the gender pocket gap, comes up empty. The cult of the pocket is a big tent party, and its adherents and renegades much like the content of peoples’ pockets comprise an unanalysable motley. There are as many sorts of pocket enjoyers as there are pocket sized objects.
Carlson gives the reader a delightful survey of the changing fashion trends that dictated the fate of the pocket in women’s clothing. The dialectic traced here from Diana Vreeland’s 1930 proposal to run an entire issue of Harper’s Bazar exploring the possibilities of the pocket to liberate women from the handbag to Christian Dior’s 1950 gauntlet that women have pockets for decoration fails to settle a foundational issue. Do women want pockets? Do they want pockets more than they want purses and handbags? Simply, the tack taken by Carlson fails to acknowledge the role of consumer demand in deciding whether or not pockets go on various items of women’s apparel. Men are no naifs when it comes to the fashion faux pas of bulging pockets, and the recurring putsch on behalf of the man purse suggests they too face the social pressure to choose between comfort or style. They must either carry all the knickknacks they need pocket bulging be damned or carry a female coded accessory that can contain it all except the resultant negative stereotyping. Of course, they might opt for the many-pocketed splendour that is the cargo pant if they don’t mind being judged as chavs or weirdos into extreme music.
The beginning of wisdom about body language is the universal validity of the nostrum: keep your hands out of your pockets. The perdurable infamy associated with enjoying the mere power of containment besom pockets offer and the contradictory attitudes attributed to anyone consummating the mute repose of putting their hands in them shows we don’t always know why someone offends us—even if we think it has to do with what they do with their hands in our company. Hannah Carlson’s Pockets: An Intimate History of How we Keeps Things Close digs deeply, and eagerly probes for clues to the enigma of the pocket among the miscellany of fob watches, wallets, mobile phones, cosmetics, guns, and keys only—I think—to come up empty.
Whether you’re the Duchess of Sussex “pioneering a new, relaxed, tactile branch of monarchy” or the governor of Tokyo keeping warm on a podium, hands in the pockets are a no-no. On the one hand it can be read as anxiety, diffidence, or deceptiveness; an avoidance-oriented coping behaviour. On the other hand, it can be—confusingly—seen as betraying disrespect, self-absorption, or aloofness; an approach-oriented, passive aggressive attitude to adopt in a social situation. It seems you can just as easily convey contempt or timidity merely by placing your hands into the typical bag or envelope like containers fastened on to an article of clothing. And this has been so since our clothes first sported pockets. There’s more to the social significance of the pocket than who uses it and what they use it for, and this is why a class analysis of pocket inequality, or a feminist analysis of the gender pocket gap, comes up empty. The cult of the pocket is a big tent party, and its adherents and renegades much like the content of peoples’ pockets comprise an unanalysable motley. There are as many sorts of pocket enjoyers as there are pocket sized objects.
Carlson gives the reader a delightful survey of the changing fashion trends that dictated the fate of the pocket in women’s clothing. The dialectic traced here from Diana Vreeland’s 1930 proposal to run an entire issue of Harper’s Bazar exploring the possibilities of the pocket to liberate women from the handbag to Christian Dior’s 1950 gauntlet that women have pockets for decoration fails to settle a foundational issue. Do women want pockets? Do they want pockets more than they want purses and handbags? Simply, the tack taken by Carlson fails to acknowledge the role of consumer demand in deciding whether or not pockets go on various items of women’s apparel. Men are no naifs when it comes to the fashion faux pas of bulging pockets, and the recurring putsch on behalf of the man purse suggests they too face the social pressure to choose between comfort or style. They must either carry all the knickknacks they need pocket bulging be damned or carry a female coded accessory that can contain it all except the resultant negative stereotyping. Of course, they might opt for the many-pocketed splendour that is the cargo pant if they don’t mind being judged as chavs or weirdos into extreme music.
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