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Late Wednesday, BoF broke the news that Virginie Viard had exited CHANEL. A force for continuity who carried on Karl Lagerfeld’s legacy after his 2019 death, while bringing a lighter, more youthful touch to Chanel’s runway collections, Viard sat atop a storied fashion empire. The second-biggest luxury brand with revenues of nearly $20 billion last year, Chanel stages six fashion shows per year across ready-to-wear, haute couture and its annual “Métiers d’Art” craftsmanship showcase, not to mention its near-unparalleled brand prestige. While some fashion fans bristled at Viard’s increased focus on ultra-wearable silhouettes, her more approachable, contemporary take on flagship products like tweed jackets helped to fuel surging sales as the Covid-19 pandemic pushed luxury consumers toward blue-chip brands. During her tenure, sales of ready-to-wear increased by a factor of 2.5, Chanel recently reported. That’s to say, her successor will have big shoes to fill. At the same time, Chanel is currently in such a strong position that the house won’t need to rush Viard’s succession. The brand grew by 16 percent in 2023, outpacing key rivals, and has such clear codes and sufficient clout with consumers to weather a season or two without a creative director. (Chanel will rely on its studio team to designer its June couture outing). Read the full story by Robert Williams https://bit.ly/3RhsQwc #CHANEL #VirginieViard

"Few items can rival the prestige and desirability of Hermès' Birkin and Kelly bags. These handbags are far more than mere accessories; they represent the pinnacle of opulence, craftsmanship, and exclusivity. The allure of these bags has only intensified in recent years, thanks in large part to the patronage of celebrities. High-profile figures from the worlds of film, music, and fashion have been frequently spotted with these bags, elevating their status to cultural icons. The visibility of these bags in the hands of the elite has created a unique intersection where fashion, celebrity influence, and investment converge. The Birkin and Kelly bags are renowned for retaining their value and, in many cases, appreciating over time. This has turned them into sought-after items for collectors and investors alike. In many instances, the resale value of these bags can far exceed their original retail price, driven by their limited availability, celebrity association, and the timeless appeal of the Hermès brand. As such, the Birkin and Kelly bags transcend traditional fashion accessory status. They are at the crossroads of haute couture and high finance, symbols of a rarefied world where luxury and celebrity create a potent mix of desire and exclusivity. This unique combination ensures that the Birkin and Kelly remain not just relevant but coveted in the fast-paced, ever-evolving worlds of luxury and fashion." #Hermes #Birkin #Kelly #Celebrities

Great piece in The Business of Fashion by Ming Liu on the resurgence of #pearls in fine #jewelery (and RTW). This trend is something I've been monitoring for some time. Over the past decade, newfound creativity centered around pearls, combined with celebrity endorsements and trade association efforts, has helped pearls reclaim their spotlight in both high and fine jewelry. Ever since Rihanna graced the 2018 Met Gala red carpet adorned in pearls from head to toe, the love affair with pearls has accelerated for both women and men. Ming discusses the growth in pearls for men extensively in this article. As an Australian, I might be partial, but companies such as Paspaley, which is at the forefront of pearling high-quality cultured Australian South Sea (and mother of pearl shell), are quietly contributing to this sector's growth. Like many other global #Luxury companies, Paspaley is a family-owned and operated company with a strong heritage spanning over 80 years and three generations. In recent years, jewelry makers have showcased a diverse array of designs and pearls. However, this is more than just a trend. The creativity and unique craftsmanship in design, coupled with the fact that pearls are more natural and #sustainable, will underscore their enduring appeal.

In June, the European Parliament voted in favor of new due diligence rules that will open up large clothing companies to lawsuits and legal penalties if they fail to identify and address human rights abuses and environmental degradation in their supply chains. The directive’s final wording is now being hammered out with EU member states, mirroring efforts in the US and elsewhere to improve visibility of how clothing is made — and close loopholes used to obscure the source of everything from cotton to diamonds. #supplychain

CHANEL has enlisted Hollywood A-listers Brad Pitt and Penelope Cruz as it tries to take back the narrative surrounding its iconic quilted handbags as rising prices and reports of declining quality tarnish the brand online. In recent months, the house’s handbags have come under scrutiny on social media amid reports of diminished quality and a series of aggressive price hikes, the latest of which pushed the cost of a medium Classic Flap bag from Chanel above €10,000 ($10,820) for the first time, higher than the price of many sought-after Mini Kelly or Birkin styles from rival Hermès. Still, it’s unclear how far even the wealthier Chanel customers will stretch their fashion budgets after years of price hikes intermittently explained by currency shifts, inflation or investments in supply chain and sustainability. Read the full story by BoF's Robert Williams below.

“Gucci’s Menswear Revolution: A Case Study in Design Evolution and Sartorial Mastery” Introduction: Gucci, a renowned fashion powerhouse, has continually redefined the boundaries of design, setting trends that resonate across generations. This case study delves into the intricacies of Gucci’s recent menswear collection, exploring key elements that showcase a deliberate evolution in design, sartorial mastery, and a nod to historical influences. 1. Outerwear Extravaganza: The outerwear pieces emerge as the stars of the collection, featuring highly sartorial designs with structured shoulders and lapels. Opulent in material richness, these garments, ranging in various forms and lengths, highlight meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail. 2. Discreet Monogram Magic: Sabato De Sarno’s influence is unmistakable in the discreet monogram motif, a departure from the classic GG. Reduced, reticulated, and with a shadow effect, it adds depth, resembling fabric textures or abstract geometric patterns. The collection hints at its widespread application, setting the tone for a new era of minimalism. 3. Glove Symphony: Gloves play a supporting yet crucial role, introducing a romantic and mysterious touch to classic sartorial and formalwear codes. From classic iterations paired with Jackie bags to short gloves adding an edgy flavor, their unconventional pairing with leather bombers adds intrigue to the narrative. 4. Tailoring Precision: The fit of the trousers emerges as a subtle but discerning detail. While some models flaunt soft, airy, and draped proportions, a majority don precisely shaped slim-fit trousers. This choice reflects De Sarno’s commitment to balance and moderation in tailoring, hinting at a resurgence of precisely measured and subtly cropped trousers. 5. Loafer Resonance: Gucci’s iconic loafers take on a masculine transformation, borrowing aesthetics from the classic Creepers of World War II fame. With varied textures, intricate details, and different proportions, the loafer becomes a canvas for a contemporary reinterpretation of a timeless design. Conclusion: Gucci’s menswear collection under Sabato De Sarno’s creative direction represents a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. From the meticulous tailoring and outerwear extravagance to the discreet monogram magic and loafer resonance, each element contributes to a narrative of design evolution and sartorial mastery. Gucci continues to pave the way for the future of fashion, fusing history with contemporary aesthetics. #GUCCI

Pharrel Williams : a fashion way of life. When you ask people why they are wearing what they wear or why they choose this particular style, they generally say that is to express themselves without speaking . Well, how to « express yourself » true fashion when we know that uniformity is the way to fit in our societies. We have left our « traditional » clothing for a global uniform since, at least, the WW1. With Pharrell’s Williams, during his career, you were able to see his personality and self expression through his style; he had the opportunity to share it with us with his visuals, red carpet looks and even his collabs with Chanel , Adidas or even Bape … nobody can forget! With this first fashion show for Louis Vuitton Men, I felt that it was a way to share his “fashion way of life”, true a reincarnation of his fashion statements, and what more luxurious than being able to design a complete collection out of his wardrobe? However, I can't help myself wondering if he will be able to keep this hype around his fashion creation; the shadow of Virgil Abloh (rip) is still vibrant and the comparison is really easy to make. After getting a closer look on is looks I see that there is an intentional take on keeping it hip-hop but on a deeper level; In these recessionary times, a “quiet luxury” is more adequate (even Balenciaga at last fashion editorial for the couture collection left the ostentarory in the closet), you still have logos and vibrant colors (its Louis Vuitton after all) but more subtle, used as patterns for example. Also, I definitely see a throwback to the 70’s era: Coordinated silhouettes, flare cut on the pants and jeans ensemble, basically my dads look in his early thirties. Items on secondhand market from Pharrell Williams previous collaboration are very highly priced: - CHANEL X PHARRELL WILLIAMS suede lambskin XXL Flap Bag is now available at 17k€ online. - CHANEL X PHARRELL WILLIAMS X ADIDAS are listed up to 17k€ online (retail price = 1043,03€). Below a short selection of my favorite looks from Pharrel Williams first fashion show for Louis Vuitton men : #louisvuitton #pharrellwilliams #fashion #secondhand #preloved

As if the fashion world wasn't already teetering on the edge of reality, Louis Vuitton takes it a step further by launching its line of designer leather bags that look suspiciously like your everyday freezer bags. With a price tag of nearly $4,000, these bags may just be the most expensive grocery storage solution out there. These pieces are a feast for the eyes, with hyper-realistic prints of various items like apples and croissants, making them a fashionable choice for those looking to "store their groceries" in style. Perhaps this is Louis Vuitton's nod to the current bag-on-bag trend or a clever move to join the ranks of Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga in creating luxury versions of everyday items. Either way, it's clear that the line between high fashion and everyday informality is getting less and less clear. Time to embrace #grocerystorecore, folks. It's coming for your TikTok feed - and your bank account. #LouisVuitton #FashionTrends #HighCostOfHighFashion. https://buff.ly/3DAhuMP

From innovative streetwear to luxurious couture, Black owned British fashion brands offer a refreshing and inspiring perspective that resonates on both local and global stages. In this article, we shine a spotlight on these creative visionaries #buyblack,#blackownedbusiness,#blackexcellence,#blackownedbrand

The obsession with work wear and blue-collar authenticity - in world of exaggerated elitism - is culturally profound . Put aside the double-helix irony of this coming from haute couture like Fendi. This lust for the primitive goes back to the early 19th century and the phrase “nostalgie de la boue.” The more technology defines our lives the more we can expect to see this counter-trend bounce higher. https://lnkd.in/ew3sCMdX