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Before visiting, I knew very little about Jackson Hole, Wyoming, but I did know that it was steep and expensive and that there was a cowboy bar somewhere.
And I wasn’t wrong, exactly. But I had a lot to learn, and my study session came this February when I finally got to ski the Wild, Wild West.
Sure, it’s starting to resemble Aspen in that eight-figure houses are popping up seemingly overnight, but don’t let that bother you: skiing is for everyone. Jackson’s skiing and overall ambiance are well worth the trip to Cowboy County.
I live in New York City, where it isn’t uncommon to hear city folk talk about this elusive cowboy-turned-ski town far out west, and I knew I had to check it out for myself. I traveled in tandem with my boyfriend, arriving on the Tuesday after President’s Day. Crowds had significantly receded from the holiday weekend, but the town was certainly still abuzz with out-of-towners like ourselves.
The Mountain:
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort boasts 2,500 acres of skiable terrain across two mountains, Après Vous and Rendezvous. It is an abundantly special place. It’s also challenging, but like every solid relationship, the more work you put in, the better the result. As it stands, Jackson Hole’s terrain is 50 percent expert, 4 percent intermediate, and 10 percent beginner, so you and your posse should be confident skiers.
As far as notable runs go, you probably know about Corbet’s Couloir, which looks worse in photos and videos than when standing on top. (Before you ask, no, I didn’t drop in. It was closed every time I went up there.) Corbet’s Couloir is one of the resort’s parcels of double black diamond runs and the only marked double black from the top of the tram.
Aside from that, JHMR is a true skier’s mountain (even though they allow snowboarding). The mountain’s layout is really built for those on two instead of one plank, and with the multiple peaks and traverses acting as mountain expressways, you’ll quickly see why. I skied on a pair of Rossignol Black Ops Dreamers (one of the Top Women’s Value Skis of 2022), a perfect all-mountain ski that was equipped to handle the variable terrain.
Before visiting, I didn’t know that Jackson Hole gets some funky weather. The phenomenon known as temperature inversion often causes the mountain temperatures to be warmer than the valley, which makes wearing layers—and shedding them—part of the gig. (You can trust me on this because I am always cold, and even I had to take a few runs without mittens.)
We started day one at midmountain after riding up Sweetwater Gondola and taking a few zippy blue laps. One thing that became clear is that Jackson Hole is tough. A lot of the double blues, like Upper Sundance or Laramie, could be considered expert terrain in other mountains, but the thigh burn and adrenaline pumping will fuel you through at least lunch. It’s worth noting that JHMR has one of the lowest base areas out west, with an elevation of 6,311 feet, while the summit reaches 10,450 feet.
I found my favorite spot on the far side (skier’s left), on Après Vous Mountain. There were no lift lines on the quad, which can sometimes be a complaint during peak holidays. Also, an underrated part of the Après Vous area is that skiers are treated to a prime view of the planes taking off and landing at the airport in the valley.
After we were nice and warmed up, we traversed skiers right on the Togwotee Pass Traverse and continued onto the Thunder Quad area, which is almost always colder than Après Vous. This is a great spot to find and ski smaller bowls and for Deadheads like myself who cannot pass up a few runs on Jerry’s Way. If the snow is good, Paint Brush is steep, fast, and a ton of fun. With a vertical drop of 4,139 feet, most of the mountain feels this way.
A day at Jackson Hole isn’t complete without a trip up to the top of the tram. While the terrain off of the tram is for advanced to expert skiers, anyone can take the roundtrip to snap photos of the Tetons and enjoy a waffle at Corbet’s Cabin. When you’re looking to return to the base either to finish up the day or hop in line for the tram, take one of the steep but scenic Hoeback runs down. Additionally, the resort features an open backcountry gate system, granting access to over 3,000 acres of backcountry terrain, including Cody Bowl and Rock Springs Bowl, two popular backcountry spots. If you’re heading out of bounds, you’ll need the right equipment—beacon, shovel, and probe—and knowledge of how to use it, so come prepared.
The Town:
Rarely does a place you’ve heard about and seen so many photos of live up to the expectation, but Jackson did for me. I’ve been to plenty of ski towns before, but none have that Final Frontier vibe like Jackson. From the (authentic and actually used) hitching rails to the Teton-inspired architecture, the place feels different and intently memorable.
One main difference from other comparable ski towns is that the town of Jackson is about a 20-minute drive from the ski resort. The mountain sits atop Teton Village, a significantly smaller “census-designated place” with a few off-hand restaurants, condos, and mountain amenities. If you’re looking for more than a vacation rental home with a kitchen, you’ll probably find yourself more keen to stay in Jackson—and that’s exactly what we did.
I chose not to rent a car, which was a great decision since most hotels offer shuttle services between the town and the ski resort, so a car is unnecessary. The town is also extremely walkable (I’m a New Yorker: You can trust me on this one). The entire town is just under three square miles, but the downtown area is just about one square mile. Also, unlike a lot of other mountain towns, it’s flat.
Getting There:
I was able to snag a superb mileage deal with Delta with just one layover, which, coming from the East Coast, seemed like a no-brainer (this later did result in a missed connection and lost bag, but it was on the way back, so no harm no foul). But without this deal, the flights are expensive (the airport is inside of Grand Teton National Park, so airline taxes are high); driving from Salt Lake is technically an option, but clocking in at around five hours and winter weather can make this dangerous. I advise watching for off-peak travel deals or using points and miles to help bring down the cost.
Where To Stay:
We stayed at The Cloudveill (the average nightly rate ranges from $400-$700) because of its prime location in the town of Jackson (we could walk everywhere). In fact, it’s the only hotel in the historic town square. They also offer a shuttle service with three options to leave in the morning and three to return in the afternoon. They even paid for an Uber when the shuttle had a last-minute malfunction and could not pick us up.
The Cloudveil is accentuated with a modern Western flair. The interior is reminiscent of Jackson’s untamed surroundings while providing modern amenities tailored to skiers, like a mini pantry on every floor filled with trail mix and light snacks, hot tea, filtered water, and La Croix seltzers. Finish your ski day with a crisp seltzer in the outdoor hot tub or a swim in the pool.
Where To Eat:
There are many places to eat in Jackson that are genuinely worth your time and money. Persephone Bakery and Snake River Roasting Company are excellent for daily caffeine needs and breakfast (especially if you need a pastry to start your day).
The Bistro is worth a dinner reservation if you are looking for a slightly more upscale option that won’t break the bank. They serve quality French cuisine and are happy to accommodate dietary restrictions. They also have a daily sit-down brunch featuring a mimosa cart. Code Red offers something most ski towns lack: tasty, fast-casual Mexican that fuels you without needing a reservation. I’m also willing to go on the record when I say the best après food is chips and guac, and you won’t be disappointed with theirs.
Finish the night with some ice cream at Cream + Sugar. They have some seriously creamy ice cream, especially in the non-dairy category.
Where To Après:
If you’re looking for on-mountain après, ski under the tram toward the Mangy Moose. The legendary bar and restaurant are decorated to look like your great-grandmother’s tag sale (in the best way), and there’s frequently live music and consistently great drinks and food. Don’t sleep on the bodega downstairs, either. They’ve got everything you need, like housemade canned margs, Fillo’s Tamales, and a full wine cellar. You can also grab merch because what is a ski town bar without merch? The moose is absolutely loose!
Oh, and that cowboy bar? It’s none other than Jackson’s Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, a crossover sensation of ticky-tacky-tourist and authentic Western saloon. Where that line between the two is drawn, I’ll never know. Saddle up to the bar (literally…the barstools are old horse saddles) and order a signature cocktail like the Ranch Hand with Topo Chico or the Dr. Pepper Old Fashioned. The drinks are strong, so leave your horse at home and walk back later.
Sidequests:
Take an extra day and book a wildlife tour at the National Elk Refuge. We went with JH Eco Tours, and they made for the best non-ski day of our trip. Upon pickup, the first thing we were asked was, “What types of animals do you want to see?” our guide made it his mission to see almost everything on our list. We saw packs of wolves, moose, bison, and elk. This is a fantastic activity for the entire family and really makes you appreciate the plethora of nature surrounding the area.
Want more skiing? You’d be remiss to visit Jackson Hole and not spend any time at Snow King Mountain. While it’s undeniably smaller and less flashy than its big sister down the road, Snow King is a perfect fill for a day you want to sleep in or explore the town of Jackson but not sacrifice a full day of skiing. The resort is in the town of Jackson, so there’s no need for a commute, and you’ll likely have the entire mountain and some pretty epic views of the Elk Refuge all to yourself.
Anything I’d Do Differently:
No. But if I had to answer, I’d consider visiting a little further from President’s Day. Other than that, I think I had a pretty perfect experience.
Worth A Return Visit?:
Absolutely. Between the humbling mountains, the plethora of wild animals, and the Western spirit, it was easy to see why this place is on so many skiers’ bucket lists. Jackson Hole’s expansive terrain is home to 131 named runs; since I didn’t hit every one, I guess it’s time to start planning my next trip.